A night at The Loft

Some months back I read in Elle Decoration about an underground restaurant, run by chef, Nuno Mendes and his partner Clarise. The concept started as a way for the ex-El Bulli chef to try out menus for his new restaurant in The Town Hall at Bethnal Green. The article featured photos of a fabulous loft-style kitchen and dining space, with a discrete staircase leading to their sleeping accommodation.
As Nuno Mendes took up residence at Viajante, the model for the restaurant changed, to invite celebrated chefs from the world’s best restaurants for guest-chef nights. The idea is that these chefs try out menus on guests who then have the opportunity to ask questions and chat to them about the menu. The Loft accommodates up to twelve people at a communal table, so the experience is ‘pot luck’ – literally!

The Loft is situated off a busy street in a quiet courtyard. The front façade is a double-height glazed wall and inside the walls are that beautiful mellow-yellow London brick. A large rustic dining table with vases of summer flowers and miss-matched chairs was the appropriate focal point. The space has an industrial, edgy feel, in keeping with this part of London near Shoreditch. It was sparsely furnished with a very organic oak bench; a purpose-built wine trolley of steel and glass, and cast iron radiators. Quirky photos were blown up and posted to the walls – a clever way to change the space and replace artwork regularly. The kitchen sits under the mezzanine, interactive and very much part of the experience.

So, our fellow guests arrived and we had the opportunity to chat to our chef over a glass of champagne. When he asked was there any particular food we disliked, my partner-in-crime replied ‘I’ll try anything, as long as its not testicles!’ Our chef glanced away, ‘Ahem, I’m needed in the kitchen…….’

As he conferred with his commis chefs in our view across the open-plan space, what we thought was his attempt to wind us up - unfortunately, wasn’t! The meal started with warm malted bread and a serving of sweetmeats and oyster, followed by liver parfait. Then, was belly with pickled cockles, before a course of tongue with scallop. Next we were served devilled kidney and cucumber, following on with pollock and trotter, more sweetbreads and then heart. With each course was a glass of wine, carefully chosen to compliment the ‘subtle’ flavours of each dish, and very welcomed! The meal finished off with a slice of Birkswell cheese with chutney, then sheep’s milk yogurt with sourdough and finally a chocolate and grapeseed granache with, of course, sheep’s milk jam and barley icecream…nose-to-tail cooking at its extreme!

The idea of sharing a dining experience with people you have just met for the first time was really fun, and the atmosphere and the setting was really unique and beautiful. I think though I’ll need to double check the menu before I go again!